More on the Uintas trip + nearly shoulder season

HERE is Meghan's writeup and pictures.  I've said it before and I'll say it again -- she's awesome.

It's the time of year where I don't have much to say -- it's because I'm tired and ready to enjoy the shoulder season.  To me the shoulder season (i.e. no longer great hiking but not skiing season yet, or can't hike yet but the snow sucks for skiing) means sit around and eat bon bons.  Or something.  Until ski season I might do nothing.  (Other than "run" Slickrock 100 in two weeks).  Maybe one last hike if my schedule permits...seeing how it's actually fall and beautiful and perfect hiking season.  But I'm ready to do nothing. 

Four days in the High Uintas Wilderness



Meghan heading up Red Knob Pass

 I just returned from a four day backpacking trip in the High Uintas Wilderness in Utah. I believe the Uintas are the only mountain range (or one of the very few at least) to run east/west rather than north/south. Perhaps this is one of the things that makes them such a magical place.

Danni and Meghan right before setting out -- courtesy of Meghan Hicks (taken by Bryon Powell)



Danni and Meghan on the first full day


Awhile ago I was musing about how much I really longed for a backpacking trip --- I believe on my blog. My friend Meghan Hicks contacted me and let me know that she was planning to hike the Highline Trail in the Uintas – 80 miles of it – and invited me to come. Within seconds I’d booked my flight and started planning, which for me of course means considering and acquiring gear… anyhow, I shouldn’t admit that.




Meghan on Deadhorse Pass at sunrise




Magical Deadhorse Basin

We began (if memory serves) at what is normally the end for people – Hayden Pass – and planned to finish at Hacking Lake (an 80ish mile journey to be completed in four days), but decided to finish at Chepeta Lake (with a bit of road walking we hiked about 70 miles). We hadn’t factored in delays due to lightning storms, which one does not want to be in above treeline at 12,000 feet. We were in several well above 10,000 feet but managed to not be caught above treeline, thanks for Meghan’s uncanny spidey sense in detecting brewing storms.





Meghan descending into Deadhorse Basin off the pass




Deadhorse Lake (?)

 Another thing we did not anticipate was how technical the trail could be at times, when it existed, and what a disappearing act the trail could be. There was some navigation involved, which slowed us a little, and all-in-all our goal turned out to be a bit aggressive under the circumstances. Since both of us are ultra-runners, it never occurred to us that hiking 20 miles per day could be aggressive. I guess we forgot about how mother nature is in charge sometimes.


Meghan crossing one of many creeks -- Deadhorse Basin



Meghan on Red Knob Pass

To summarize the trip, it was absolutely incredible. The scenery was diverse and ranged from southwesty looking red rock to high scree covered mountains to forested expanses to marshy moose-country meadows. The place was so magical I half expected to see a unicorn fly by. The company was perfect as well, since Meghan is a laid-back easy-going chica. I couldn’t count the number of times I laughed until I cried. I can, however, count the number of times I was annoyed or exasperated – zero. She’s good people.

There were so many incredible aspects to the trip, but for now I’ll recount one that is pretty typical of this trip (excluding the terrifying experience of sitting at 11,000 feet hearing thunder and lightning so close together there’s no counting between the two). On the first day as we approached a significant pass – Deadhorse Pass – a storm was moving in so we set up camp early.

The basin looking back from Porcupine Pass

We missed being pelted with hail by mere seconds and took refuge under our tent (loaned by friend Dave – it was awesome (a Golite Shangri-la 2). Because we began by getting behind, we decided to leave super early before it was light out to make up mileage. (Note: this didn’t work that well as navigation is much tougher in the dark).

The moon setting

The trail up to the pass sometimes resembled goat trails you see in Glacier, which are narrow, slanty/washed out and super exposed. My heart pounded a bit, particularly since the trail was covered in hail. When we reached the top of this amazing pass it took some time to find the trail down the other side. There was a large rock cairn that led us to believe that the route down was right there, though we finally determined that if there was class 4 scrambling involved we would have known about it in advance.

Meghan almost to the top of Anderson Pass

As we descended the actual trail, which Meghan found after scouting the entire ridge while I putzed around and spaced out, the sun began to rise and revealed the most magnificent scenery imaginable. The light, the rock, the basin – it all glowed in hues of orange, red and pink. I felt a euphoria that would reappear again and again throughout the hike.

Meghan almost to the top of North Pole Pass

Long shadows on North Pole Pass

Finally we descended into a hail-covered basin that, though cold, was definitely a likely spot for a unicorn sighting. Enjoying coffee in the brisk chill, breathing in the big-country beauty and watching the sun slowly make its way over the surrounding mountain peaks, I knew that there’s little in life I love more than being outside engulfed in natural beauty. It just makes me feel good.

North Pole Pass (me) (photo courtesy of Meghan Hicks)

near Kings Peak, courtesy of Meghan Hicks (photo and trip)

Our abode -- photo by Meghan Hicks



Me in total bliss descending Deadhorse Pass



Yes you can (2011 Swan Crest -- 50k)

One of the fun things about "running" (I walk a lot) ultra-distances is that no matter what I think I can or can't do in life, and no matter my actual limitations, I have the opportunity to remind myself that sometimes achieving is nothing more than putting one foot in front of the other and continuing on until the finish.

Zella and Elisa

Sunday marked the fifth year I've run the Swan Crest 57k, though due to fires and trail closures this year's course was different and about 50k.  I was sort of "meh" about actually running but my girlfriend Elisa really wanted to do it because she wasn't sure if she could.  She had been musing about the challenge for a little while and though she considered bailing a couple days earlier, she rallied and gave it a go. She totally did it.  No problem.  She put one foot in front of the other until the very end.  That's all it took (along with some patience, pushing through mental and physical fatigue and a little pain).  I'm really glad I got to be part of her experience and am especially glad that I went out and enjoyed the day.  (Also, I'm technically training for a hundred so I should technically do some long runs first).

photo and watermelon courtesy of Brad (well, Brad didn't buy the watermelon but he carried it up the mountain)

Indeed, the day was perfect and the company was even better.  We camped a couple nights, drank beer and ate lots.  A great way to spend Labor Day weekend.

Crater Lake -- Jewel Basin

courtesy of Keith/Leslie

This weekend Keith and Leslie came down from Banff for a final visit before they head off to Australia for a few months.  Along with my friend Amber and both Sonja and Rhino, we went on a short backpack in the Jewel Basin.

It was pretty hot but we lucked out insofar as there were no mosquitos that night where we camped along the lake and the weather was great for camping.

The dogs were remarkably well behaved, including Sonja who is like a new dog (though probably feeling a little broken due to Rhino's dominance).

Rhino proved himself to be a super mellow easy-going guy when he's tired enough to not care.  When he's feeling energetic his puppy exuberance is hard to tame.  But they're only puppies for awhile (a couple years...) so it's cute to see him so goofy.

Rhino carried our wine for us, nice doggie



I used my new MSR e-wing tarp rather than a tent (yellow thing)

 All in all it was a great hike and a great camping spot.  I highly recommend it to anyone not wanting a major haul.  It's only a little over 5 miles to Crater Lake and the hike isn't super challenging.  The heat makes it a little more so but on the whole it's something most people could easily manage.  We took a lot of breaks to swim and eat and sit and each way took only a few hours.

Floral Park Traverse + Mad Wolf Mountain

Mary Ann, Deb, Tom, Ruth and Danni at dark-o-thirty Saturday -- Floral Park traverse

This weekend was a veritable whirlwhind of hiking and excitement. Saturday I did a 14 hour half trail/half off-trail traverse of Glacier National Park from Logan Pass to Lake McDonald Lodge via "Floral Park" and on Sunday I climbed Mad Wolf Mountain on the east side of Glacier National Park. Saturday was long (14 hours) and partially scary and Sunday was less long (7.5 hours) but scarier in bits.

Hidden Lake and a mountain (Reynolds?) (I am so bad at mountains...)

Mountain goats are really antelopes

I may have previously mentioned that I am not a seasoned mountaineer (actually it would be a stretch to say I'm at all a mountaineer -- I'm more of an enthusiast!) but my friends bring me along anyhow and instruct me through the parts that require minimal sense and ability. (i.e. hand here, foot there, hand there, foot there etc.) I will say that the main lesson I am learning, which my friend noted is a statement about life, is that things that look absolutely impossible and/or terrifying from afar are often totally do-able when you get close and give it a try. Stuff that looks like sheer cliff faces can be ascended or descended -- you just have to be open-minded. Or maybe experiened enough to be able to tell from afar. Either way, it's crazy cool to see a CLIFF and then get up it -- or look back and think "I went down that!" Yes, I am easily amused but I feel so empowered and embiggened mentally after I shakily venture far outside my happy place.

Glacial silt makes pretty blue ponds!

On Sunday a new family member joined us -- Rhino the giant "Inuit" dog from Alaska. Our friend from Fairbanks finally convinced us to adopt the guy and while he's very pretty and sweet it's a rough transition in many ways. Sonja has gotten bloody and is definitely scared of Rhino. Afterall, he's already 85 pounds at 9 months.  But, he's bred to be a bear dog and is clearly a loyal, loving, giant, slobbery oaf of a furball.  I think he will fit in well once he can learn to not hurt my precious Sonja (who I previously thought was an Alpha...I think maybe there's a lesson in there somewhere).

Unfortunately, it was such an intense weekend and so incredibly blog-worthy (to the extent that anything is really that blog-worthy) that I can scarcely piece together an adequate blog entry to describe everything that transpired. Since I like to be in bed by nine I really don't have enough time. So, I will leave you with a few pictures and my lame attempt at a video. My friend Dave makes some cool videos, which inspired my efforts, but my efforts probably fall a little short.  Pretty grade-school quality with classic shaky cam... but nonetheless if you have a little under 3.5 minutes to kill enjoy my Floral Park video. 

Floral Park Traverse -- 8/20/11 from Danni Coffman on Vimeo.

Ted is ridiculing my music choice... perhaps it makes it seem like we were all being marched to our death... but it's just a cool song I like darnit. :p

Mad Wolf (Sunday) (Elisa and Laura)

 I didn't take enough Mad Wolf pics because, truthfully, it takes all my energy to soldier through some of the scrambling -- either mental, physical or both. I was thrashed after Saturday and the friends I went with Sunday are just a wee bit (maybe a lot more than that) above my level of athleticism. I would feel pathetic and embarassed but these are just cool people who truly don't seem to mind bringing me along for a day in the Park. That's what friends are for (Whitney Houston anyone?)...

Mad Wolf -- Brad



Heading off Mad Wolf for Margaritas (Elisa and Laura)

 Great weekend.  Another great weekend on tap.  Man it's tough to squeeze a whole summer into such a short period of time...

Packers Roost -- Flattop Mtn -- Fifty Mtn -- Waterton (walk to Canada)

Yesterday friends and I did a modified version of what is, I learned, called "the dash."  We were planning to hike from Logan Pass on the Highline Trail to Fifty Mtn to Waterton but some in our group weren't excited about bringing ice axes and crampons to navigate a couple of the remaining and reportedly gnarly snow drifts on that route so we changed routes.  I was assuming this new route would suck and it would just be time on my feet (not sure why I had this idea) but it was absolutely awesome.  LOVED this hike.

 Alpine meadows are some of my favorite things on earth, and this hike had lots of them. 

 We could see our original planned route on the Highline -- it was really pretty being across the drainage on Flattop Mountain which had 360 degree views.

 The meadow near Fifty Mountain was my new favorite place in the world.  I want to live there during summers.  We stopped for lunch here and I was pretty much in heaven.

 The best part of lunch was that Dave packed lunch beers.  I'm never hiking without Dave again.  He was very popular on this hike.

Said after our hike: "can Dave be our mascot and come everywhere with us?"



One of three grizzlies on the horizon

After lunch, as we were heading towards the Waterton Valley, Deb spotted grizzly bears on the ridge ahead.  There were three.  I thought they were elk at first but no they were massize giant grizzlies.  Probably a mom with her two sub-adult cubs.  We were pretty excited until they started our way and, without running, were able to cover a ridiculous amount of ground quickly.  Deb yelled at them and they eventually went back and over the ridge.

Deb heading into the Waterton valley

 Finally after 23ish miles we hit Goat Haunt Ranger Station where we showed our passports to US border agent peoples.  I think it's weird that we are increasingly interrogated by US border agents before we even leave the country.  It strikes me as weird.  We haven't even left!  But maybe they wanted to be sure we'd be able to get back in?

The USA/Canada border strip

 The funniest thing about this was that our Canadian customs experience consisted of calling and telling them our names and no we don't have alcohol or firearms.  Don't forget to call Canada and tell them we're here!  Peculiarist border crossing of my life.

Prince of Wales Hotel

 I had originally wanted to hike (run actually) all the way to Waterton but Dave bailed on that idea and I knew no one would let me go alone.  It meant a leisurely boat ride on Waterton Lake and more time to drink beer.


post hike beers

 And we saw the most disturbing but typical display of complete ignorance and stupidity.  There were all these young bucks eating grass outside our hotel and people were petting them.  This little toddler was running towards one and Deb shouted "stop her! stop her!"  (Deb is a vetinarian by the way).  This guy started arguing about how the last deer let her sit on him.  Natural selection?

What is wrong with people?

 We had a fun evening and I tried to adopt a cute hippie girl Park Ranger and we danced and were merry.

Left to Right: Deb, Allison, Callie, Dave, Me

View out Prince of Wales -- Waterton Lake

I felt good the whole time and felt strong.  My feet felt a little beaten, like I need to be lighter on my feet.  I even wore my new Hoka Bondi Bs, which are superior to the Mafetes by a lot.  All in all a fantastic hike and one I would highly recommend to anyone looking for a sweet hike to Canada.  Also, thumbs up to the Chief Mountain border agents -- they were really friendly and funny, even if slow in getting people through. Finally, a video from Dave:

Packers - Waterton from Dave Chenault on Vimeo.